The Glacier Express for families: a review

The Glacier Express passing across the Landwasser Viaduct.

It’s one of the world’s most scenic train rides. But is the Glacier Express family-friendly? And can you do the journey for less? Here’s a complete guide from a family who has done it.


In a nutshell

Yes, the Glacier Express is family-friendly, and surprisingly doable even with young kids. We travelled it with our two-year-old and were pleasantly surprised by how smooth it was. The staff were friendly and accommodating, the pace was relaxing and there was plenty of space for wriggly toddlers.

That said, it’s not cheap. In this guide, we cover both the full Glacier Express experience and a much cheaper DIY version using regular Swiss trains that follow the same route.


About the Glacier Express

What’s the Glacier Express?

Switzerland’s Glacier Express is one of the world’s most iconic train journeys, running between the mountain resorts of Zermatt and St Moritz. It takes around eight hours to wind through the Swiss Alps, passing through 91 tunnels, climbing over the 2,000m Oberalp Pass and crossing 291 bridges, including the iconic Landwasser Viaduct (pictured above).

You’ll see everything from deep gorges and snowy peaks to sleepy villages and turquoise lakes - all through huge panoramic windows. For families, it’s a chance to soak up Switzerland’s most jaw-dropping scenery without needing to hike or hire a car.

The easiest way to board the Glacier Express from the UK is to fly to Zurich and take a train to Zermatt. The Swiss rail system is pricey but excellent, and some long-distance trains have family carriages with play areas.

Journey options and travel classes

You can book the full eight-hour trip, travel just one segment, or split the route with an overnight stay.

There are two travel classes. Second class is more than comfortable, with panoramic windows, generous legroom and tables for families to sit together. Seats are arranged 2+2, and it still feels spacious, especially by UK train standards.

First class has a 2+1 layout, offering more space and a quieter atmosphere. If your kids need room to stretch or nap, it might feel more relaxed. But for most families, second class is perfectly fine, especially if you’d rather save the cash.

Is the Glacier Express family-friendly? Our experience

We travelled on the Glacier Express in April 2024 with our two-year-old and loved it. Staff were friendly and helped with our bags and pram. Fellow passengers were just as kind - no eye rolls or sighs, even when our daughter got a bit restless.

On board, there was plenty of legroom, clean toilets and big tables for sitting together. You can pre-order meals or bring a picnic to save money.

There’s no play area or onboard entertainment, so how well it goes depends on your child’s attention span. If they’re six and up - and into trains or mountains - they’ll likely enjoy the experience.

Our daughter was mesmerised by the snowy peaks and enormous windows. But if we were to do it again, we wouldn’t attempt the full eight-hour stretch in one go. Sticker books and puzzles can only do so much. In hindsight, breaking the trip with an overnight stop would’ve helped.

When she needed a break, we walked up and down the train. The corridors are wide and have windows on both sides, so you still enjoy the scenery while moving about.

Was it worth it? For us, yes. But the Glacier Express is designed with adults in mind — it’s slow, quiet and scenic. Kids can enjoy it too, but they may not find it quite as magical as you do.

What does the Glacier Express cost, and is it worth it?

Let’s not sugar-coat it: it’s expensive. You’ll need both a ticket and a mandatory seat reservation.

1st class ticket 2nd class ticket Seat reservation
Adults CHF272 (£244) CHF159 (£143) CHF49 (£44)
Children 6–15 CHF136 (£122) CHF79.50 (£71.50) CHF49 (£44)
Children under 6 Free Free Not required*

*Children under six don’t need a reservation unless you want them to have a dedicated seat. We booked one for our daughter, and we’d recommend doing the same.

Travel passes that can save you money

Swiss rail passes can make a big difference to your budget, especially for families.

Swiss Travel Pass

The Swiss Travel Pass covers full ticket fares, including the Glacier Express (you just have to pay for the seat reservation), and costs:

  • CHF232 (£204) per adult for three days

  • CHF281 (£247) per adult for four days

Swiss Half Fare Card

The Swiss Half Fare Card gives 50% off on all Swiss transport. The card cost CHF120 (~£105) per adult for a full month of travel.

Swiss Family Card

The Swiss Family Card lets children aged 6–15 travel free with a parent holding either a Swiss Travel Pass or a Swiss Half Fare Card (holders of the card or pass must request the Swiss Family Card when booking).

Cost: Free

Children under six always travel free and don’t need a pass.

Are the cards and passes worth it?

If you're travelling to and from the Glacier Express by train, or doing other rail journeys, the Swiss Travel Pass and Swiss Half Fare Card are certainly worth considering, especially for families with two or more older kids.

How to do the Glacier Express route for half the price?

You don’t have to book the Glacier Express to enjoy stunning views on Swiss trains

Regular Swiss trains follow the same tracks as the Glacier Express, so you can recreate the route for less. The catch? You’ll need to change trains four times.

To avoid too much hassle, consider doing the route over two days and stopping in places like Andermatt or Chur.

You won’t get table service or food trolleys, but Swiss trains are smart, comfy and have large windows. We used regular trains for other parts of our trip and loved them.

Cost comparison:

Glacier Express full journey for a family of four (two adults, one child 6–15 and a seat reservation for one child under six): CHF593.50 (£533)

By comparison, you do not need seat reservations on regular Swiss trains. You’ll need to buy your tickets on the SBB (Swiss Federal Railways) website. Here are the journey legs and prices:

Adult Child 6–15 Child under 6
Zermatt to Visp CHF19.20 (£17.30) CHF9.60 (£8.60) Free
Visp to Andermatt CHF21 (£18.90) CHF10.60 (£9.50) Free
Andermatt to Disentis/Mustér CHF5.60 (£5) CHF2.80 (£2.50) Free
Disentis/Mustér to Chur CHF24.80 (£22.30) CHF12.40 (£11.15) Free
Chur to St Moritz CHF35.40 (£31.80) CHF17.80 (£15.90) Free

Total: CHF106 (£95.30) per adult | CHF53.20 (£47.65) per child 6-15 | Free for children under 6

Total for the same family of four: CHF265.20 (£238.25)

Savings: over 50%.

Glacier Express vs regular trains – which is better?

We booked the Glacier Express for a special anniversary, so it was always meant as a treat, and we don’t regret it.

But the regular trains are brilliant too. If you’re on a tighter budget or like a more flexible itinerary, they’re a no-brainer. And if you’re used to UK trains, Swiss ones feel like a revelation.

Tips for a smoother trip

Capture the Landwasser Viaduct: The trip’s main photo opp. When travelling from Chur to St Moritz, head to the back of the train and stand on the right-hand side (you’ll be given a 10-minute warning). You’ll get the best view of the train curving across the viaduct into the tunnel.

Travel light: You’ll likely stop overnight in Zurich, Zermatt, St Moritz and maybe Chur. Lots of train–hotel hopping = not the time for giant suitcases.

Pack entertainment: It’s a long ride. Bring sticker books, toys, colouring, snacks and, when needed, an iPad.

Budget for food: Switzerland is pricey — even a pizza can be £25. Pack picnics when you can.

Get an eSIM if needed: O2 customers roam for free. Others may not. A £6 eSIM sorted me out for the trip.


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